This is a list of my favorite climbs in Tuolumne Meadows. There are lots more of course, these are the ones I’ve led and liked. It starts down by the lake and moves east up highway 120. I started this years ago when the internet was young and Supertopo did not exist, but people seem to keep stopping by so it is still here updated every now and then.  No topos or accurate descriptions here - get a real guidebook for that!

Mike Bolte: mjbolte@gmail.com

STATELY PLEASURE DOME

All the routes on this beautiful wall above the lake are pretty good. I’ve never liked the downclimb to the west on that ball-bearing covered slope. My favorite two here are:

1. -  West Country 5.7: up the curving corners. Trust your feet and layback.
   

2. -  South Crack 5.8: Really nice pitch or so of finger crack, then endless, blank, runout friction climbing
   

MOUNTAINEERS DOME

1. - Rock Lobster 5.9+: An excellent (sandbag) route. Steep 5.8/9 corner for the first pitch (stemming, jamming and laybacking). Then a short series of hard face moves to a wild fingertip traverse and mantle (says 5.9+ in the guide, I'd call it 10b). This is followed by one of the best cracks in the Meadows with about 80 feet of finger and hand jamming. If it were climbed more often it would be a bit cleaner. You can finish by flailing and thrashing up the Hoodwink roof or escape underclinging the roof to the right and up the corner.
   

PYWIACK DOME

1. - The Dike, 5.9: Just across the road from Stately Pleasure. Got to do this one just because the line is so nice.  Mostly easy climbing along the quartz dike up to where the wall steepens and the route moves right. You need to choose your path a little carefully here and not miss the bolt.  You can walk off down the right side (as seen facing the dome) with only a few moments of terror as it is steep in spots, rap off with two ropes or climb the 5.7 (one move) dihedral above the last pitch of The Dike and walk off to the left (East).
   

2. - Needle Spoon, 5.10a: Start left of The Dike. Pitch #1 is continuous thin face climbing at 5.9 or harder. Too many bolts so it is very well protected. The crux is a single move left to a good hold.
   

3. - Aquaknobby 5.9: Yow! A great route but a bit scary. It starts with a third class up a 5.6 slab. The long second pitch is classic Meadows knobs sans bolts. You can place some pro in a little dihedral, but the crux moves (pretty stiff for 5.9) are steep and sequential. You can place medium stoppers between knobs. Definitely a "real" climb. More stiff runout climbing leads to the crack. The left-leaning crack that looks so nice from the road is actually just a couple of moves through a bulge then hiking to the top. Walk off left at the top. I did this with my friend Bill Frey and we walked away thinking we were losing it since it seemed hard and scary for a mere 5.9. We stopped at the Mountaineering School to get a beverage and saw Peter Croft. He said `what did you climb this morning?'. We said `Aquaknobby'. His eyebrows went up, he said `pretty stiff eh?', we felt way better.
   

         

Paul Doherty on Needle Spoon

BEYOND PYWIACK

1. - The Vision 5.10a: Nice route, great line. Pitch 1 is missing the upper bolt, pitch 2 is big-time major-league runout but not too hard (minimal 5.9) although the belay at the bottom of the pitch is not great (2 rusty 1/4 inch bolts) and the few bolts that do exist on the climb are in bad shape -- looks like they have been pounded by rock fall or maybe crazed people. Pitch 3 is classic Meadows 5.10a face climbing with good-enough protection. Pitch 4 is a nice enough but disappointingly easy crack up the headwall. No harder than 5.6 most of the way. Note, haven't climbed this route since 1980 - bolts could have been replaced.
   

THE BUNNY SLOPES

There are some surprisingly-nice bolted routes here. You scramble up some third class to a long ledge system. The routes follow bolted lines. It is generally steepest at the bottom and the runout to the first bolt might be intimidating if you are close to your leading limit! Need two ropes to get down from chains. As the angle kicks back half-way up, it is a long way between bolts, but the climbing is easy with knobs all over the place.

DOZIER DOME

There are a bunch of fun, excellent moderate routes out at Dozier Dome. This is the dome west of Medlicott on the same side of 120. You can’t see it from the road. There is a dirt pullout on the left when heading west from the Tmds campground toward Lake Tenaya, just past the large paved turnout across from Low Profile Dome. Look for cairns at the west (lake) end of the turnout, hop over the small stream and follow the good trail through the woods. When you come to some granite areas, look for more cairns.

1. - Errett By Bit 5.8: If you climb the first pitch of Errett Out, moving right up a ramp to a pair of chains, then head up the long second pitch of Bit-by-Bit, this is a called Errett by Bit in the latest version of the SuperTopo guide. The left-hand start to Errett Out climbs up to a bolt, then climbs a slightly spooky 5.7 slab up to a ledge/flake system. Up the left side of the flake then following a line of bolts up and then right to a double-chain anchor. The next pitch consists of very nice knob trotting up a well-bolted face trending a little right. The 3rd pitch goes up an unlikely looking headwall with a couple of well-protected moves above the belay after which the angle drops off. You can rap down from three sets of chains (60m rope) or walk off. Maybe a little harder than the Golfer's Route (but much more tightly spaced bolts) and a little easier than Shagadelic.
   

Looking up the second pitch of Errett By Bit

Looking down the second Errett By Bit pitch.

The unlikely-looking 3rd pitch of Errett By Bit. Good knobs make this little steep headwall fun and straightforward.

1. - Holdless Horror 5.6/7: This is a 3-pitch-long crack that runs straight up the right side of the dome. Varies from a finger-sized crack to off-width with enough knobs most places to allow you to skip the chicken wings. There are a few steep sections. All in all a fun climb. A couple of big cams are nice to have. Much of the climb can be sewed up with stoppers. The second pitch has all the wide climbing, the third has a steeper finger/hand/knob section. Walk off to the right, down the slabs, then cut back along a trail to the base to pick up your pack.
   

Holdless Horror is the left-hand crack above.   (right photo) Kitty near the top of the 2nd pitch on Holdless Horror                        

1. - Bull Dozier 5.7: This is the second crack right of Holdless Horror that runs pretty much the full height of the wall. I like it more than Holdless. Nice hands and fingers with just one wider spot. First pitch is straightforward and ends at a nice ledge. Then follow the crack in the corner up to a small bulge. The crack here is about knee size.

   

   A #4 Friend works to protect it and after you step up you can put a #2 Friend in the very back of the crack. One move to grunt over this section and you are back to perfect hands. Pick your second belay based on availability of anchors. If you go too high it gets a little harder. Easy third pitch up the crack and then cutting right. You can walk off from there.
   

Bull Dozier from the ground. Scramble to the base of the crack then great hands/fingers to a ledge. The little bulge is up by the triangular flake.

Looking down the 2nd pitch of Bull Dozier

There are some nice routes in the center area of the cliff. To get to these you 3rd class up the low-angle open corner to a big ledge then go left for Isostacy or right for Felsic and Cheetos and Everclear.

1. - Isostacy 5.8: An excellent route on Dozier that runs straight up the center of the wall. The first pitch heads up a little corner to the “nose”, underclings left with middle-sized cams for pro then up (go right a little) on knobs. This is a touch runout and you need to pick the right path. Up the steep wall on good holds, past a few bolts up to a nice belay ledge with chains. The second pitch would be fabulous if it were a little steeper. Some runout easy climbing then a really nice (but low angle) finger-sized crack for 150ft to another set of chains. The third pitch to the top is only 60' but there are a couple of steep moves on knobs (solid 5.8) well protected by two bolts.
   

Third pitch of Isostacy, crux is well protected by the bolt to John’s right.

1. - Cheeseburgers and Beer 5.8: Fun route. This route is on the left side of the dome. When you reach the spot where the trial pops out at the base of the dome, turn left and continue to head up hill a little bit. C&B is the leftmost set of bolts. It is a little way (40’ maybe) to the first bolt, but the climbing is easy. There are about three thin moves getting past the 2nd bolt then you latch onto a couple of good knobs. The moves over the small bulge are straightforward once you step up. Need some medium and small cams to protect this section. Rap from the big tree on Blitzo’s Balcony or do one of the routes on the next tier of the cliff.
   

Just at the crux of Cheesburgers and Beer. The route goes more-or-less straight up bearing a little left at the overlap above.

MARIUOLUMNE DOME

Hobbit Book 5.7: This is a wonderful little route. Long approach from the left. Up the easy corner, then launch out on the terrifying (for 5.7) face with protection using tied-off knobs. Eventually move back to the corner and climb around a couple of overhangs by face climbing left. At the top, head toward Fairview for a long walk off.

MEDLICOTT DOME

Shagadelic 5.8: This is one of the “new” routes up on Medlicott and it is really nice. It is a bit of a grunt to hike up there. The first pitch is up a corner that takes a bit of medium-sized gear, up to a large ledge and a big tree. The corner/face above is bolted and requires a bit of thought, but ends up on top of a big pedestal (the bolts are easy to miss). Then up the large face on knobs for some great climbing. It is easy to follow the route as there are lots of bolts. The last pitch finds a path through some overhangs. I’ve hiked off to the east (left facing the wall) and west and can recommend going west!

The Shagadelic line with two people at the 3rd (or 4th) belay for scale (left).

The 1st pitch (below) from the ground.

THE LAMB

Little Sheba 5.10a: Steep finger crack on the west (lake) side of the the Lamb.

Steve Mitchell on Little Sheba

LOW-PROFILE DOME

This is a nice dome for cool mornings. Close to the road, catches the early morning sun. Great views of Medlicott and Dozier on the other side of the highway. Driving toward the lake from the meadows, you can see Low Profile on the right. Park in a long, paved pullout on the left.

Darth Vadar’s Revenge 5.10a: An excellent route. It starts on a giant ledge, up a short corner, clip the first bolt, then reach out left for pretty good holds (poor feet) and make a nice hand traverse to the next corner. Up this to the base of a significant bulge. Some tackle this head on (slightly left of the bolt at the lip) using big knobs, some slide out to the right where the holds are not quite as big, but the bulge not so steep. either way it is fun. The knob climbing after the bulge stays interesting up to the double-bolt anchors. Used to be many fewer bolts after the bulge.

First pitch of Darth Vader’s Revenge. Leader is clipping the first bolt. Hand traverse left to the short right-leaning crack under the bulge then right up the black streak or move right and then up.

The Golfer’s Route. Moving up and left past the corner mid-route might be the crux.

HAMMER DOME

Shadow of Doubt 5.10c: This a wonderful steep knob climb. Felt like 5.9 climbing with three letter grades added for the spice of treading on those knobs for move after move. Use a runner when you traverse right to avoid rope drag later.

Paul Doherty on Shadow of Doubt.

DAFF DOME

Guide Cracks 5.5 - 5.8: These are five nice cracks on the South Flank of Daff. About 80 feet tall with chain anchors at the top, these are a great place to practice crack climbing and placing gear.  Facing the wall, the rightmost is the easiest at 5.5. Great stances from which to place gear. Handsized and up. The next crack left is definitely harder (5.7/8) and you need to be careful at the bottom where the jams are slightly shallow fingers. Next left is a steep finger/hand crack (5.8) with lots of crystals in the crack (I tape up). The upper section is in a slightly awkward corner with a crack in the back. Next left is a fist/off-fist short crack in the corner defined my a pedestal. The other side of the pedestal is a steep layback/hand crack in the corner.

South Flank of Daff. Rightmost crack is Great Circle Route with a climber up at the first belay. Next crack left (with the dark band is the 5.5 Guide Crack, climber center left is on the next guide crack, the 5.8 3rd crack is obvious left of the largest tree and you can see the thin crack  at the top of the pedestal that is the continuation of the leftmost guide crack. Snagged the photo off the web - credit Mike Schwartz

Alimony Crack 5.8: Continue left along the wall from the Guide Cracks and you come to an evil-looking offwidth and just past this a clean left-leaning hand crack. This is Alimony Crack. Nice 5.8+ route. The crux is a wide section about halfway up. Can rap from the top down to the bolts on Fingertips. Tie a knot at the end of your rope and don’t miss those Fingertips bolts.

Hogwash 5.10c: up a blank slab stepping from one break in the glacier polish to the next.

Great Circle Route 5.10a: My first 5.10 lead about 30 years ago now. Nice handcrack up to a smooth face with the breaks now and then in the polish that allow progress. You can rap off with one 60m rope from the bolts at the first belay (5.9) or do the second slightly harder face pitch. There is a steeper section that is the crux. The photo at the top of this page is looking up the handcrack of GCR.

West Crack 5.9: This is a very popular route. It goes up that big impressive face to the left of the obvious Crescent Arch on DAFF. Slightly tricky start, surprisingly intimidating overhang to start the second pitch (jugs left, good hands in the crack, get a foot high) then surprisingly easy crack climbing with good knobs helping out on the face. I get some photos up soon although this is well documented on line.

FAIRVIEW DOME

The north face of Fairview is pretty spectacular. It is really big. If there are some people in the image below, they look like specks. It stays in the shade till midday and all summer long morning starts are between cold and cool.

Regular Route 5.9: This is a really nice route. The first pitch seems to get more and more slippery every year. You can go up either of two shallow cracks to get started and I always wish I had selected the other one. The crux move is where you move into the main crack/corner. Slightly insecure jams here and getting a foot up in the crack is the key. From there it is cruising cracks and corners for 7 or 8 pitches to fourth-class to the top, mostly 5.6 - 5.7 climbing. The supposed second crux at the top of the long corner (pitch 3 or 4) going past a small triangular roof is easier if you stem out left. The path on the section above this to Crescent ledge is not completely obvious and some variations are a little harder than others. If you are reasonably fast climbing and doing belay logistics quickly this route can be done in 4 or 5 hours. At the top head west toward the lake till you can cut back right around the front. It is a long but easy walk.

2nd pitch of the Regular Route. Hal Murray climbing, Bob Ayers and Paul Doherty ready to go right behind us.

Lucky Streaks 5.10d: A great crack climb. Go straight up the beautiful finger crack at the end of the 2nd pitch and start the 3rd up the 5.10c/d variation. It is a short, nice finger crack move. The 10b ramp on pitch two is a little serious feeling. Tips laybacking for a long way and it is hard to find good spots to cram pro in. Don’t wait too long to start the leftward traverse, if you go too high it is harder. Miles of excellent 5.9 - 5.10a crack climbing on this route. Most of the belays are hanging and your feet will get tired. It was one of my best days climbing doing this in 1990ish. Two ropes of two, Bill F. and me and Herbert plus a guy named Tom. Bill was having an off day and I led all the pitches.

Great Pumpkin 5.8: This is another excellent Fairview climb. A little hard to see from the ground, you just have to get up there and find the path that goes. Find your way up a left-leaning corner then head right. Up some right-leaning corners to a big ledge with a tree. a wild step right, up to a corner then face climbing past widely-spaced bolts on increasing lower-angled ground. There is some climbing far from protection.

Magical Mystery Tour

LEMBERT DOME

Werner’s Wiggle 5.8: Fun little short route to the right of the water cracks. First question is when to rope up. You can feel a little out there before reaching the base ledge with a couple of old bolts.

Water Cracks 5.7:  crazy chimney climbing with all holds, edges, whatever rounded. I bet you’ll only do them once. Left crack is a little easier than the right.

Truckin’ Drive 5.8+: This is a pretty nice little climb. Up to an encounter with a crack-like horizontal feature climbing over the obvious arch. Reach down for fists and throw yourself up. Follow the crack left and up to a golden face  with classic Tuolumne face climbing. A touch run out, but the falls are clean!

Rawl Drive 5.10a: When I last tried this about 100 year ago I retreated whimpering. Old bad bolts, hard climbing, bad fall line.

Lunar Leap 5.9: This is a very good route. Head up a beautiful gold wall with solid 5.8 climbing and modest protection to a big ledge below the arch and headwall. The “leap” is for real. There is a good hold up and right (and alarmingly near the right end of the ledge). Fire, grab, pull, mantle and then head up a pretty continuous face for a ways. I’ve always thought it was 5.9+ up the headwall.

The Leap on Lunar Leap - credit Chris Falkenstein

Direct Northwest Face 5.10c: First climbed this when it was rated 5.9+. As subsequent guidebooks came out, it got harder and harder! Some  excellent crack climbing although alot of it is in pin scars. The top of the 3rd pitch is a bit burly as is the bulge at the top of the 4th. The last pitch starts with a sneaky slab mantle. Small tricams protect it.

Crying Time Again 5.9: This is one of the best routes in the meadows. A little run out, lots of different kinds of climbing, steep knobs for the last 3 pitches, and it is an unlikely-looking line from the ground.

PUPPY DOME

There are some nice, short leadable cracks at Puppy Dome and good bouldering near the parking for back-country travelers and down by the river.

Puppy Crack 5.7: don’t get discouraged by the starting move! Nice finger/hand crack.

John cranking Puppy Crack

This is a tricky toprope to set. Go to the top, get belayed down to the anchors. Clip in, run the rope through the anchors, then rap down clipping a directional at the fixed pin below the roof and placing another medium cam about half way down. Otherwise a fall on the bottom half will result in a wild pendulum. At the bottom it is good to have a belayer and a spotter. There is  a chopper flake.

Steve Latif taking the “easy” 5.10d start to Do or Fly